A collection that derives directly from the heart.
Rooted in instinctual creation, this season Louis transforms objects, shapes, fabrics, and materials into visceral expressions. Bravely introverted, powerfully fragile. For the first time, Louis sets no preconceived theme, no fixed inspiration, but follows a pure heart-flow. Nimble, fragmented, elusive, intense. Treading and lingering between the inner and alter ego. Louis Shengtao Chen's collision and romantic design language become an intuition. In the calm and tranquil mood and the absence of a narrative environment, the pure pursuit of one's own design language is displayed in full spotlight.
The result is a complex sentiment: a nightmare of feeling awake, anger towards a numbing reality, the eternal pursuit of excitement and romance, the triggering urge to love and undo love. The intuition transforms into a collision between texture and material: stark white against black, puffy dresses against distorted fabrics, coating on top of silk wool, patent leather against distressed silk. Colors follow a similar logic, where thick browns and oranges extend around white spots, fragile love morphs into any form, light and free.
Following the flow of consciousness, heart spots, binding sensations, and experiments with black drive the exploration of the unresolved and chaotic. Back to the primitive, retelling the image of womenswear born from consciousness. Louis explores the codes of menswear for womenswear in a faux-naïf manner. Suiting pocket squares and brooches are expressed through rolling them into flowers with a texture of cigarette paper. Louis combines a youthful and distinctive approach, challenging the use of tailoring and black. The resulting pattern is unpredictable, incomplete yet complete, leaving one with wonders and yearning for more.
Ultrasuede® leather is used across the collection, turned into a multiverse of craft and wonders. Disrupting the technological neo-leather and turning them into heavily worked fringe gowns, a printed deer pattern, and reversed shearling overcoats. Bedtime slip dresses are created in full sequin, embellished floral made from PET materials are embroidered onto everyday pea coats; satin corsets worn over large volumes of pink faux-fur coat; reworked biker vest decorated with a leather floral twist brooch and worn over soft silk dresses; details of stocking hooks extend earthy and warm wool coats. Louis plays with the seen and unseen, the desire to show while hiding, in all contrasting ways possible.
In the realm of wakeful wonder, perception gradually numbs, devoid of dreamlike reality, a calm anger forms a deepening nightmare in the eye of the storm.